Nancy Leson always hosts huge gatherings for Thanksgiving. How huge? Huge enough to require two birds, each the size of a turkey-shaped dirigible.
One way she keeps the cooking-day rush to a minimum is to make what she can in advance, especially her favorite cranberry sauce, which keeps so well she can make it six months ahead of time. I was shocked — simply shocked.
"Nancy Leson," I gasped, "I cannot believe that you are talking on an NPR affiliate about a cranberry sauce recipe that is not Susan Stamberg's."
Ms. Leson was undeterred.
"I like to keep it local, Stein," she retorted. "I use local cranberries and I use a local recipe from the "Pasta & Co. Cookbook." And here it is:
Cranberry Sauce With Sour Cherries
From Pasta & Co., makes 3½ cups
Ingredients:
- 1 bag (12 ounces) raw cranberries, washed and picked over
- ¾ cup dry sour cherries
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 2/3 cup currant jelly
- 2/3 cup water
- ¼ cup dark rum
Steps:
1. In a large saucepan, combine cranberries, sour cherries, sugar, jelly and water. Over low heat, bring to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes or until cranberries begin to pop.
2. Remove sauce from heat. Stir in rum. Refrigerate overnight to thicken sauce. Return to room temperature to serve.
Nancy’s note: You may cook the sauce to your taste, from firm, whole cranberries (as described here) to softer ones that give off more pectin and make a thicker sauce (in which case you need to simmer them longer than the recipe calls for, perhaps 15 minutes). Teetotalers can leave out the rum, but it won’t taste as good!
Something new at Thanksgiving dinner
I'm of the opinion that, assuming a competent cook, most eaters look forward to the exact same Thanksgiving dinner year after year and don't want any surprises. Even so, this time around, I'm adding Deb Perelman's Squash Toasts with Ricotta and Cider Vinegar.
She adapted the recipe from one by Jean Georges Vongerichten, as served at the ABC Kitchen, and the picture looked so delicious that I had to try it. I went with goat cheese instead of ricotta, and Perelman suggests several other cheeses that also work well.
When wife DeGroot swooned after just one bite, I knew it would be a perfect side for this year's Thanksgiving dinner. They're a little time-consuming, but not at all hard to make. And the squash and caramelized onion mix can be made the day before.
Besides being one of the most delicious new recipes I've come across lately, her very clever introduction is a joy to read. Do take a look.
So what about you? Any time-saving tips to share with harried Thanksgiving day cooks? Let's have'em.
"Thanksgiving, man. Not a good day to be in my pants."– Kevin James
