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The nutritious indigenous plant is part of a movement to revive native crops and cuisines — and a means of restoring the health and economy of Oaxaca, one of Mexico's poorest states.
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Modern bakeries rely on industrial mills for their flour. But a small and growing number of bakers, chefs and pasta makers are making their own flour with the age-old method of stone milling.
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Many consumers in North America and Europe are willing to pay a premium for nutritious, organic grains. That makes the market ripe for a revival of millennia-old bread wheat, some plant breeders say.